Piotr Schab (Wild Country Team Poland) ends his trip to France with an impressive list of ascents, with La Prophétie des Grenouilles 9a moving to the forefront.
After last year’s visit to overwhelmingly popular Céüse, Piotr’s 2014 summer plan included a few less famous spots around Briançon - Rocher des Brumes, Tournoux, Pelvoux, Entraygues and Guillestre. Having got used to different rock climbing styles offered by this large area, it was high time he’d tried some of his summer projects. It all started with a quick ascent of Clin d'oeil au paradis d'en face 8c: “Done in the second attempt thanks to Marcin Wszołek’s perfect beta. Aesthetic moves over –unfortunately - not entirely natural limestone features of Tournoux.”
The next in line was a quite peculiar 8c testpiece located in the Rue des Masques sector in Guillestre: “La grande Margalef is an interesting one... it consists of the crux sequences of several routes, so one may call it a traverse for connoisseurs, still I found it delightful :)”
The process of projecting aforementioned routes was interwoven with excellent on-sight ascents, such as Racing in the Street 8b (Rue des Masques, Guillestre) and Loups hurlant 8a+ (Tournoux). After he succeeded on his projects, Piotr moved to the Fournel valley to see whether he could meet the main challenge of the trip: “La Prophétie des Grenouilles was one of a few routes that I had in mind while travelling to France. Once you’re at the foot of the Rocher des Brumes main crag, you immediately notice an impressive line traversing over the entire, most overhanging part of the face. The beginning of the route wasn’t new to me as it’s also the first part of Une arquée pour le criquet 8c that I managed to send last year. After 8c crux sequence one needs to climb about eight meters of a rather easy traverse section with some rests and then, struggle with the hardest part of the route – a 4-move tricky boulder graded something around 7C, I’d say. Afterwards, there’s a place good enough to catch one’s breath, which is actually quite advisable as the last section of the route is extremely continuous and does not get easier till the very last draw. It took me about six days to send it (not taking into account the last year’s tries on Une arquée...). In my opinion, La Prophétie... is not hard for the grade, however, I wouldn’t lean towards any lower grade either...” – Piotr says.
La Prophétie des Grenouilles 9a (phot. Marcin Ciepielewski/marcinciepielewski.pl)
That’s the third 9a route by this Wild Country Poland athlete, who last year managed to send Cabane Au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland, and two years ago clipped his rope into the anchor of famous Era Vella in Margalef, Spain, this way becoming the youngest Pole ever to send 9a difficulties. Just to end the trip properly, Piotr paid a flying visit to Ailefroide doing a quick ascent of Face bouc 8c.
Marcin Wszołek raises his bar by leading his very first 9a route.
After the first part of trip, during which he managed to send routes such as Une arquée pour le criquet 8c/c+ RP, Un clin d'oeil au paradis d'en face 8c RP and Beauté de chine 8a+ OS, as well as thanks to the influence of the charming atmosphere of the Fournel valley, Marcin decided to rise to a greater challenge.
„Some time ago, I said that I really liked everything about the Fournel valley and that I might stay here a bit longer. I decided to aim even higher and try the difficulty I’d never managed to ascent before. In the past, I was always of the opinion that it was better to send several 8c projects and on-sighted as many routes as possible within one trip rather than get stuck trying one 9a that eventually, may not even let you see the anchor. This time, however, it was different as from the very beginning my shape had been improving steadily, which resulted in quick ascents of 8c routes as well as increasing courage while choosing my next climbing goals. In the vicinity of Briançon there’s plenty of smaller climbing spots located 30 minutes drive from each other so every member of our team could find their own projects without running the risk of typical burnout. Thanks to that, I could calmly begin the process of projecting and this way, my adventures with the French language in the background brought me to my first 9a route J”
The choice of La Prophétie des Grenouilles, being the test piece of the main Rocher des Brumes crag, was a natural consequence of the earlier ascent of Une arquée..., as both routes share the same start.
“La Prophétie consists of over 70 moves that can be divided into three parts. First of them includes 8c/c+ difficulties located on a route that I’ve already done before. Afterwards, one needs to climb a long traverse section with a few rests but ended with a tricky, lottery boulder. After the crux, there’s a place to have a rest before entering a difficult part of the neighbouring 8b(b+) route. While I was working out the beta I never had any problems with the last section and I thought that there was no way I would ever fall there. Nevertheless, the reality turned out to be brutal enough as on a top shape and motivation day I fell exactly off that place. The following attempt, after a rest day, was just a pure physical and mental fight that fortunately, finished with my victory.” – Marcin comments.
The route took him just five days of work, not taking into account the previous attempts on Une arquée...
“9a difficulties appeared to be not that terrible as they seemed, or maybe it was just my type of climbing or I was in my top shape...? Regardless of everything, I’m so happy that I could add that route to my list this particular year (I’m 30 years old now).”
Meanwhile, on the occasion of a visit to the Rue des Masques sector in Guillestre, Marcin equalled his on-sight personal best, sending Racing in the Street 8b. “Seems like it’s nothing but actually it means a lot to me as it’s been exactly ten years since I did my last – and the first at the same time – 8b OS...”
Marcin is going to stay abroad for about few weeks more and there are several other areas waiting to be visited so we hope there’ll be a lot of good news to convey within the next month.
La Prophétie des Grenouilles 9a (phot. Marcin Ciepielewski/marcinciepielewski.pl)
