Jordan Buys has been in great form recently, and a spell of good weather has meant that he's been able send quite a number of hardcore projects and perhaps the most outrageous is the flying prow taken by his new route Jenga, Jordan takes up the story...
"Many people walk under it, look up and think to themselves, 'something must be climbable up there, it’s a great line'. Others even say it out load. I was one of those people, until I took some action.
The big flying arête or prow or whatever you call it looms above the classic routes of Comedy and Pantomime at Kilnsey crag, Yorkshire. I'd run out of inspirational routes at Kilnsey having just done King of Thieves, 8c+, at Giggleswick everything else seemed naff.
So on a day that I had gone to there just to support Naomi I asked for a quick belay up Rubble, the 7c that the blankness hangs above. I just wanted a closer look. This is when Naomi i think realised I was going to be ages. A quick stick up rightwards into the neighbouring route Ecstasy and a dodgy freestyle traverse left saw me hanging off a sky hook and a micro wire trying to get a closer look. I put in one prospective bolt , brushed a few things then really had to get down and belay Naomi!!
A week or so later I went up and bolted the rest of it and was so happy that it looked like it would climb well. You do Rubble, which is a non-classic 7c, get a fantastic rest at the belay, step right and attack the wall above with vigour. No really hard stopper move, just punchy sustained funk all to the very top. The route runs up parallel to Ecstasy and has its own belay."
Look out for the film of this ascent coming soon from Nick Brown and Ben Pritchard...
Jordan putting his new Proton Qd's to good use on the first ascent of Jenga, 8b+. Ph. Nick Brown
