The British climbing scene is very exciting at the moment. It is quite clear that as a sport it is developing at a rapid rate and none more so than ParaClimbing. For many climbers, this aspect will be almost unknown and to non-climbers, the thought is baffling
as climbing without a disability seems hard enough.
The GB ParaClimbing team have been performing incredibly well this year, but are still struggling to get funding and the recognition they deserve. I currently coach a few ParaClimbers, including GB team member Nick Middleton. For me, this aspect was a new and exciting prospect. Getting to understand what was achievable and getting the climbers to be more aware of their body and how capable they are is the challenge. The climbing style is very different given their specific disability, but seeing a climber, young or old, top out a 6c lead with one arm is the most inspiring performance I have seen in the climbing world to date!
Fran discussing tactics with her coach Jimmie Gustin at the World Championship in Gijon recently
Following some of the team’s recent success, I caught up with world ParaClimbing champion, Fran Brown to find out more about the team, their achievements this year and the plans for 2015.
Fran, congratulations on another win in Gijon, it is good to see other team members joining you on the podium too! You have been competing as world champion for two years now, does this affect your performance at all?
Thank you! No, I don't think being world champion has changed my approach towards competitions. Being reigning world champion does add a bit of pressure to some competitions as people expect you to perform well.
To stay on the top spot are you constantly adjusting your training to keep ahead of the competition?
I don't deliberately change my training because of other competitions however I'm always looking for ways to add to my program and enhance it. My training had definitely progressed in the last two years and I have spent time analysing the results I'm getting from each area of training to see what can be improved. Due to the individual nature of different disabilities there is often little point comparing training programmes between para climbers anyway.
What does a typical week of training look like for you?
In the summer it's competition season and in the build up to that I train approximately 30-40 hours a week. This is a mixture of structured climbing sessions, gym work and cross training such as swimming. My program is periodised and so exactly what I'm doing at any one time can vary depending on how close to a major competition I am. In the winter it's off season I concentrate on climbing for fun, trying to get in as many outdoor trips as time and weather allow.
As I mentioned, your team mates also performed very well in Gijon too, do you train together as a team?
Not that often. As a team we are scattered around the country so it's both expensive and inconvenient to meet up that often. Several team members have personal coaches too and due to the individual nature of the sport it works well training alone. That doesn't mean that we don't share knowledge though.
Why do you think Team GB performed so well?
All the team members competed really well on the day and as a nation we are lucky enough to be able to enter a large team.
ParaClimbing is starting to become far more popular in the UK and I have no doubt that your performance and publicity is to thank for this. What steps do you think should be taken, if any, to develop ParaClimbing in the UK?
Running the para climbing series at weekends would encourage more adults to attend who may have work or study commitments that mean they cannot do week days. A separate kids’ event could also encourage more youngsters to enter the competition side as they wouldn't have to compete against adults. As would having a youth team set up to address and develop appropriate training for younger climbers. Obviously a bigger budget would help but that is always going to be limited in a new sport.
Is there a lot of funding for you and the team to represent your country in the IFSC world cups?
No. There is a real lack of funding which does limit team members’ participation
How can this be improved?
Possibly more team sponsors, more publicity and support from the climbing walls and community.
What is next for you? Are you training for more competitions this year?
My competition season is over for this year so now I am trying to get in some outdoor trips to finish some projects. I also have my winter training and a few filming projects.
What are your goals for next year?
I'm not sure yet. Possibly concentrate on the European Championships and some outdoor projects. I'll decide in the New Year when the competition schedule comes out.
Finally, what words of advice can you give to those wanting to get into ParaClimbing or for those who want to make the team?
Give it a go. We are a friendly team and the British comps are laid back and fun. If you want to take it seriously, find a coach who can advise on a structured training program and don't over train!
Wild Country sponsor the GB Para Climbing Team - many thanks for this interview to Robin O'Leary.
If you are looking for climbing coaching, please visit http://robinolearycoaching.com/ or https://www.facebook.com/robinolearycoaching
