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On the team for 10 years - Talo Martin

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Talo Martin's a good friend of mine and good friend of Wild Country. He's been on the Spanish climbing team for 10 years in which time he's established some of the hardest sport routes in La Pedriza, just oputside Madrid and written the bouldering guide to the area as well... Still as malasombra2-1active as ever he sent us a few words for the Blog:

Talo on his slab masterpiece, Malasombra 8b+.

In the team for 10 years. Episode #1

"The day that I start with Wild Country (and Red Chili in asocciation) was an amazing day. That day I met the dealer Ramón Portilla (the best all-time Spanish alpinist) and offered me to join the team. He told me: "Kid, I don't give a shit if you're an eight grade climber or not, I like the way you do climbing cause you do it in La Pedriza, where I started climbing like you, and there's too different places in the world I have known, but no one like home, and I really appreciate it"

And with these words shocking my mind, my 23 years smile, new quick-draws, harness, shoes.., I drove home from the city office as the happiest kid in the world. At that time, i just climbed some hard routes to 8b, and all I wanted to do is climb. A lot. And thats how I did. 

Next day I went to one of the all time projects, Los Hermanos Malasombra, a today's test piece, and at that time the first moves had never been made. Suddenly, that day I found the key to make that possible, and a few days later, after some hard nights with nightmares as well, I was able to climb it to the anchors. After breaking up that barrier, everything came by itself. I bolted with my friend Luis Santamaría a new route, Match Point, 8a (yes, in Scarlett Johansson's honor) and I did it in 3 tries. Another today's test piece that I stablished with the lightest quick-draws, the lightest harness and the best shoes I ever had, the Red Chili's Phantom). Two first ascents with the same rubber. This looks pretty cool I thought..

Next week I came to Los Brezos sector, to attack Equilibrium, probably the hardest slab to do, cause of conditions, holds type and more factors.. The rubber must to be perfect, your nails, your caffeine level, combed eyelashes towards the slab.. And there I was, more nervous than a groom in his wedding night, ready for the battle. And don't remember exactly how the hell I managed to climb it, but I did it. I remember coming to the anchors whistling this superb Röyksopp song, with my heart beating out of my chest. I remember my friends cheering me from a balcony. Another FA with the rubber in its limit. Thanks lord, thanks Jimi Hendrix.

 It was a beautiful day. Lovely."

 


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