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Jordan Buys (UK)

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Jordan's one of the new breed of young superstars that seem to be able to switch from trad to sports to bouldering at the blink of an eye and be pretty darn hot at any of them. Recently seen heading up the cast on Grit Flick, where Jordan despatches the second ascent of Widdop Wall, given E10 many years ago by John Dunne, Wild Country are pleased he's joining our team for 2010. His tick list is pretty impressive too for such a young guy and I'm sure we'll be hearing more from Jordan very soon...

Jordan by Jordan....A bit about me....

I got into climbing through my now wife Naomi, we met when we were mid teens. She and her bro were well into climbing and took me along. I'd get taken around the Lancashire quarries and to the local little wall. And despite the incessant midges I was keen to do more. We all progressed through the grades and started exploring further afield. We gave everything a go and were not scared to fail. Naomi's brother and I even gave ice climbing a go but after witnessing a nasty accident in Scotland we kinda lost interest...

Since then I've represented Britain on the British bouldering team, done some international competitions and once managed 4th in the British Bouldering Championships.

I go through stages of what motivates me, once I got keen for E9 and did some, then I thought I better do some sport and wanted to climb 8b+ and dragged myself up two in a month. There was a time when I was determined to climb font 8A on every rock type I could, this led my to some really nice places and got to send some king lines and also get me fit in shape for doing a font 8B.

Just the other day I got the urge to go to Curbar and do some onsight ledge shuffing and got carried away and onsighted Moon Madness E8 6C.

In the future I would like to do more mountain routes, maybe get back into ice climbing and do some cool waterfalls. Then there's comps, E10, Font 8b+, French 8c.

 

 

Climbing Highlights

Trad Climbing

  • Widdop Wall E9 – 2nd ascent
  • Carmen Picasso E8 – OS
  • French Duke E9 – FA
  • Boomerang E8 – FA
  • Splashback E8 – FA
  • The New Statesman E8
  • The Great White E6/7 - OS
  • Over 30 routes of E7 and above.

Sports Climbing

  • O Draconian Devil 8B+
  • Power Ranger 8B+
  • Massala Martyr F8b – FA after loss of hold
  • Idefix F8b – 2nd ascent
  • Total of 8 F8b’s Overnight Sensation F8a+ and Energy Vampire F8a+ in one day 50 routes of F8a and above.

Bouldering

  • Isla de Encanta V13, Chabal V12 – 2nd ascent, Queen Kong V12, Mike’s Prow V10 – Flash, Mr Fantastic V12, Special Cases V12, Over 25 boulder problems of V11 and above.

Jordan Buys on Queen Kong 8A+, Queens Crag Northumberland


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