I met Talo a couple of years ago (and now climb with him a lot) and hooked up for some climbing. One of the 'new wave' climbers based around the granite layground of La Pedriza, (just north of Madrid) in Spain, Talo is obviously a talented boy! We spent a great day of him teaching me about the awesome Pedriza granite in between redpoints on his 8B+ project. And whats great is that all his mates + his brother were redpointing it too...his attitude was that it was cool for anyone, the rock isn't his to own...
What was refreshing about Talo though, was that though he may be 'new wave' with his slew of hard bolt protected slabs at Pedriza there is definately an 'old school' part to him. I discovered this at his flat when he showed me the home made kit he uses for this grim aid ascents: including home made 'mashies' and 'bashies' made from lead.....gulp!
You can see Talo's Blog here with loads of info about climbing and bouldering around La Pedriza http://entreansias.blogspot.com
The Hit List
- Kinshasa, 8b+, FA., slab, La Pedriza.
- Art-Herencia, 8b+, slab, La Pedriza.
- Kalahari Kombat, 8b+, slab, La Pedriza.
- Kan Kongo, Pitch 2, 8b, FA., slab,La Pedriza.
- Los hermanos Malasombra, 8b, slab,FA., La Pedriza.
- Kan Kongo, Pitch 1, slab, 8b, La Pedriza.
- Equilibrium, 8b, FA., slab, La Pedriza.
- Floja de Bragas, 8b, slab descending moves, FA, La Pedriza
- El Tambalea, 8b, slab, FA, La Pedriza.
On sight:
- En busca del cazo perdido, 7c, slab, FA, Cavallers.
- Fanatick Patrick, 7c, slab, Cavallers.
- Jartum, 7c, slab, La Pedriza.
- La chica de aerobic, 7b+, FA, opened from the ground slab, 1 bolt-40m, La Pedriza.
- Excalibur, 7c, face, Siurana.
Boulder:
- Michael Knight, 7c+, slab, La Pedriza.
- Les rèvoltes du Stonewall, 7c+, jump, Fontainebleau, France.
- Seven rallonguè, 7c+, arete, Peñas Blancas.
- Las Nueve Revelaciones, 7c+, overhang, Zarzalejo.
- La Porcelaine, 7c+, slab, FA, Burguillo.
- En Busca de la Felicidad, 7c, Santa Gadea.
- Pearl, 7c, slab, FA, La Pedriza.
- High Plain Drifter, 7b, on-sight, Buttermilks.
Aid:
- La raya del lápiz, A5 R, FA, La Pedriza.
- Barry White, A4+/7a, FA, La Pedriza.
- Stainless 0’5mm, A4+ R, FA, La Pedriza.
Big Wall:
- Hijos de La Pedri, 7b+ 650m, FA, Tsaranoro, Madagascar.
- Anasazi, A4/6b, 3 days, Roca Regina.
- Desequilibrio mental, A3+/6a, 2 days, Vilanova de Meià.